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Update: 2022-02-18 23:58:05,Bạn Cần biết về Topping NX1s specs. Bạn trọn vẹn có thể lại phản hồi ở cuối bài để Tác giả được tương hỗ.

690

I received my NX1s today. Looking at Toppings frequency response graph the bass is >2db down at 20Hz. Sure enough this appears to be largely due to undersized coupling caps between the volume pot and gain stage (1uF into 9.4Khz resulting in a -3db point of 16.9Hz). The good news is that there is no DC bias on the coupling caps, so it should be possible to bypass them (rather than find some way to replace them with larger capacity caps within the small amplifier case). I measured less than 1mV DC offset on the outputs with the caps in place – I’ll short out th coupling caps and remeasure, to ensure the level doesn’t become problematic.

It’s worth addressing this issue (by bypassing the existing caps or replacing with larger ones) as the phase response of the amp is compromised significantly above the -3db frequency. The normal rule of thumb would be to set the coupling caps to have a -3db point of 1/10 the lowest frequency you’re aiming to reproduce (so 2Hz if you want clean 20Hz playback).

Update: all works fine with iPad Pro source and bypassed coupling caps. I’m measuring 0.5mV and 0.6mV on the NX1s outputs. Bass definitely bigger and tighter (not over the top, just less softened).photosonic said:Just curious, how do you bypass the coupling caps.Click to expand…
I left the caps in place and soldered a thin wire from one pin to the other (to short them out of the circuit). I actually used the legs of two spare resistors, as it was easy to tin one leg with solder, hold in place and then solder to the existing cap legs (then trim off the resistor body toàn thân and other leg). You could alo remove the caps and install a wire from one PCB hole to the other.

I should mention that this does leave your amp and headphones exposed to the risk of DC on the source input connection. With the caps in place no DC gets to the NX1s gain stage, so a DC offset from the source wouldn’t be amplified and fed to headphones (possibly damaging them). Removing or bypassing the caps is the best option for audio quality, but does remove a layer of protection. Another option would be to install replacement coupling caps of higher capacity (10uF or more) – this would retain the protection from DC, but remove the problematic roll-off and phase shift in the bass. The problem with this option is finding coupling caps of 10uF or greater that won’t degrade the sound and will fit within the tiny NX1s case (tantalum need a DC bias so won’t work here, bipolar electrolytics would work but don’t sound great, film caps are probably too large).sharpi31 said:I left the caps in place and soldered a thin wire from one pin to the other (to short them out of the circuit). I actually used the legs of two spare resistors, as it was easy to tin one leg with solder, hold in place and then solder to the existing cap legs (then trim off the resistor body toàn thân and other leg). You could alo remove the caps and install a wire from one PCB hole to the other.

I should mention that this does leave your amp and headphones exposed to the risk of DC on the source input connection. With the caps in place no DC gets to the NX1s gain stage, so a DC offset from the source wouldn’t be amplified and fed to headphones (possibly damaging them). Removing or bypassing the caps is the best option for audio quality, but does remove a layer of protection. Another option would be to install replacement coupling caps of higher capacity (10uF or more) – this would retain the protection from DC, but remove the problematic roll-off and phase shift in the bass. The problem with this option is finding coupling caps of 10uF or greater that won’t degrade the sound and will fit within the tiny NX1s case (tantalum need a DC bias so won’t work here, bipolar electrolytics would work but don’t sound great, film caps are probably too large).Click to expand…
Do you need to connect all 4 legs of the caps?sharpi31 said: I received my NX1s today. Looking at Toppings frequency response graph the bass is >2db down at 20Hz. Sure enough this appears to be largely due to undersized coupling caps between the volume pot and gain stage (1uF into 9.4Khz resulting in a -3db point of 16.9Hz). The good news is that there is no DC bias on the coupling caps, so it should be possible to bypass them (rather than find some way to replace them with larger capacity caps within the small amplifier case). I measured less than 1mV DC offset on the outputs with the caps in place – I’ll short out th coupling caps and remeasure, to ensure the level doesn’t become problematic.

It’s worth addressing this issue (by bypassing the existing caps or replacing with larger ones) as the phase response of the amp is compromised significantly above the -3db frequency. The normal rule of thumb would be to set the coupling caps to have a -3db point of 1/10 the lowest frequency you’re aiming to reproduce (so 2Hz if you want clean 20Hz playback).

Update: all works fine with iPad Pro source and bypassed coupling caps. I’m measuring 0.5mV and 0.6mV on the NX1s outputs. Bass definitely bigger and tighter (not over the top, just less softened).Click to expand…
Thanks mate. Just did it and enjoying an upgraded nx1s.

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